Nepal (1981) Part 8

Looking down on Namche Bazar.  Note our orange tents.

15 February 1981
Namche Bazar

We didn't make the summit.  My night at Lobouje was miserable.  I had all the symptoms of acute mountain sickness in spades: severe headache, nausea, loss of appetite and swelling of the body.  When I got up, I clearly was not well enough to climb.  Ingrid had a tough night as well and decided to stay with me.  I was to do some mild exercise and decide before noon if I wanted to stay or retreat.

After the sun came up, we hiked around a bit down in the valley, but it was no use.  My head pounded with the slightest climbing and I still felt miserable.  We decided at 9:30 to abandon the climbing part of the trek and retreat down to Pheriche for the night (elevation 13, 910).  Lhakpa Tenzing and Woody made arrangements for Sila Sherpa and Pema Dorje (the cook's younger brother) to accompany us.  So, after choking down a small potato for lunch, and accompanied by two yaks, we headed off.

I immediately feel much better once we've descended to Pheriche.

I improved steadily as we descended and by the time we reached Pheriche I felt fine.  We camped at the "Himalayan Hotel."  We spent the afternoon watching four little kids play in the yard.  Pema Dorje did very well as cook -- we had curry, rice and noodles for dinner.  Tea and breakfast were served in bed.

I was disappointed not to reach the top; however, I think the disappointment is largely an ego-driven emotion.  My body failed the challenge; I'll go home and have to say I didn't make it, etc.  On the other hand, I certainly didn't spoil the trek.  And, in fact, it was quite pleasant for Ingrid and me to have 24 hours to ourselves.

17 February 1981
Namche Bazar

Looking southward to Ama Dablam's north face; moonrise at left.

On the morning of the 14th, Saturday, Ingrid and I set off after breakfast for an AM day hike, north up the Pheriche valley, past a glacier and alongside a frozen lake.  The hike was uneventful.  We were accompanied by Sila.  We left about 8:30 AM and returned for lunch at 1:30 PM.  The valley was broad and flat, gradually sloping upward as we headed north.  The vegetation was fairly thin, low scrub and we saw no wildlife.  There were many streams running down the valley and some of the crossings were free form.

At a rest wall, with Taweche rising above.

The glacier was strange.  Very tall (~ 100 feet) with a well defined shape, but covered with dirt and snow so its appearance was unimpressive.  The frozen lake was long and half as wide, beginning at the edge of the glacier.

Our hike up was under pleasantly sunny skies.  As we returned a solid breeze blew in our faces, chilling us.

South face of Taweche.

The rest of our trekking group was lunching at Pheriche when we returned.  Their previous day's hike up from Lobouje had been very difficult, about 11 hours for the round trip.  They climbed a peak further up the ridge than Kala Pattar with elevation estimated in excess of 19,000 feet.  Nancy Jo had the worst trouble with altitude and had to be put on oxygen.

Two boys, in Pangboche

After lunch, we hiked down to Pangboche for our camp.  The upper village is beautiful, set in a side valley with juniper trees.  There are good views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam.  We visited the local gompa and saw the yeti skull and skeletal hand.

During dinner, Ang Lhakpa told us about his experience in the 1973 Italian Everest expedition and showed us lovely silver and gold medals he had received.  He made it to Camp 6, but did not have an opportunity for the summit.

I took some nighttime photos of Ama Dablam and Everest in moonlight.

Thamserku through the trees.

Sunday, we began late the fairly long hike to Namche.  The walk to Tengboche was lovely with superb views of the mountains along nicely forested paths.

Luxury! Brandy at the bar of the Hotel Everest View.

We hiked two hours from Tengboche to our lunch stop, following the same route as during our ascent a week earlier.  After lunch, we left the main trail and climbed the ridge to Khumjung and then to the Hotel Everest View.  HEV is pretty amazing.  A Japanese venture. Everything, including water, must be portered up.  Room rate is US $192 per night for two, including board, but the rooms are unheated.  Guests fly into Syangboche and walk a half hour to the hotel along muddy trails.  They often must be put on oxygen when they arrive to counter altitude sickness.  The building is in poor repair, with a leaky roof.  The view of Everest is excellent, however.  I had a brandy at the bar.  Then the fog came in and we descended.

After passing the air strip, the trail became almost vertical, dropping 1000-1500 feet before reaching Namche.  We are camped next to Lhakpa Tenzing's jouse and are taking our meals there.  He departed suddenly for Kathmandu the previous night after receiving a vague, urgent message from the IEE '73 leader.

Jorsale
Yesterday we had a layover day.  Woody, Hugh, Terry, and George stayed in camp washing themselves and their clothes and resting.  The remainder of our group headed out for Thami where a famous gompa is situated.  The hike was rather dull.  We headed north along the Bhote Kosi (but well above it).  As we left Namche, we sat three lamargeiers -- vultures with 9 foot wingspans!

We passed through a small pine forest, then for two and a half hours traversed the hillside, with scrub vegetation, passing several side valleys with small, generally uninteresting villages.

Thami boy

Finally, we reached the bridge crossing the Bhote Kosi at the north end of the valley.  Ingrid was suffering from early stages of mild dysentery, so she turned back, with the sardar.  The rest of us, led by Jeta, headed for Thami.  The climb from the bridge was very steep.  We climbed about 45 minutes before reacing the lower portion of Thami -- a brown village in a pleasant, although windy valley.  The gompa, which required another 30 minute climb, was set in the mountainside with many other buildings around it.  Unfortunately, the gate keeper was out for the day and we couldn't go inside.  We spent 45 minutes taking pictures then headed down.  I was anxious to get back, so I hustled, making it back to camp by 4:30 PM.  On the way, I saw 10 impayan pheasants, seven males with their brilliant colors.

Kantega and Thamserku from Thami

In the evening, we had our big dinner party.  Marinated yak meat and chili-cabbage hors d'oeuvres.  Then fried and boiled yak meat pot stickers and tough, overcooked yak steak.  Plenty of chang and rakshi to wash it down.  Ingrid and I retired early, since she wasn't feeling well.

This morning, the trek felt finished.  We dawdled around Namche this morning then came down to Jorsale for lunch.  We have, perhaps, a day's hike to Lukla, expecting to arrive there tomorrow evening.  Ingrid is still ill, although she ate some potatoes and an egg for lunch.

18 February 1981
Lukla
We have reached the end of the trek, with only a short flight separating us from Kathmandu.  The past day and a half have been very quiet.  Ingrid is feeling better after beginning a course of intestopan forte.  We have been bickering a bit; I think the intense closeness for three and a half weeks is having its toll.  When on the trans-Asia trip, we were still new enough to each other to overlook all of our problems/conflicts -- now, we just overlook most of them.

Yesterday afternoon, on the road from Jorsale to Phakding, we stopped at the Hatago restaurant, a nice Japanese place built in the early 70s to supply the Hotel Everest View with fresh vegetables.

Farming, near Lukla

The walk was very pleasant, alongside the banks of the Dudh Kosi for the most part.  About three hours of walking took us to an earlier campsite at Phakding.  To our surprise, there were a few extra tents set up. Two small Japanese groups had arrived, one going to Kala Pattar and the other to climb Pumori.

19 February 1981
Lukla
Yesterday morning we got up at our usual time, about 6:30 AM, and left Phakding early.  We had a pleasant 3-hour walk to Lukla.  Along the way, Ingrid stopped to photograph a water spigot and two Nepalis came by, one offering to sell a khukri (a Nepali knife).  We hadn't been particularly interested until he mentioned $10 as the price.  I offered Rs. 100 and we agreed to Rs. 105.  The deal included the big, heavy curved kukhri, a small "chicken" knife, a flint and steel, and the leather case.

Ingrid's flower necklace at Lukla

As we began our final climb to Lukla, we saw many purple wildflowers; Ingrid made a necklace of some of these.

We arrived at Lukla just after noon.  It is a largish town with quite a bit to see; however, I can imagine that one would tire of it quickly if the planes didn't come.

After lunch, we walked around town, visiting a super well-stocked shop, the lovely Sherpa cooperative hotel and the steep and grassy airstrip near which were remnants of wrecked planes.

All aboard!

In the evening, we had yak meat again for dinner (tasty, but overcooked).  Rakshi and chang went with dinner, of course.  Hugh got plastered and fell in a ditch.  There was a big fight in town with broken windows.  I slept through all of it.

This morning is beautifully clear -- so we have great hopes for our flight to whisk us back to Kathmandu.  We had to have our luggage together by 7:30 AM even though the plane will not arrive until 9:30 AM, or so.